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As with all finishes, it is recommended that samples be created prior to committing an entire project. I think based upon the body of responses, I will continue to use Russ's dewaxed. Based upon his positive experience, my friend will continue to use the stuff out of the can.
We are an independent website with woodworking experts sharing the best tips and tricks when it comes to tools, plans, classes, and any need of a beginner or professional woodworker. I do have a can of Zinnser specifically because I needed some and ran out of Russ's orange. I know their guarantee is 3 years, but I just don't believe it. To me, using shellac for a fine finish simply means mixing my own. There are some good reasons not to intermix certain coatings.
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Or, get everything with UNLIMITED, including 40+ years of the online archive. However, it can deteriorate if exposed to high temperatures or in contact with a solvent. 4) Using Russ's anhydrous 200 proof alcohol means you know that nothing is left in the dried film but shellac. 1) You know when it was mixed so you know it will dry hard. Go to CucamongaWoodworking.live to learn more about our online workshops and to register.
I've sprayed WB lacquer over Zissner non-dewaxed shellac with no problems. It's been at least six years now on several chair batches and no callbacks. The pale and un-contrasting grain appearance of WB doesn't hold a candle to conventional oil and lacquer finishes, but with shellac or NC you can get the advantages of both, just 1/2 of each. The problem I see is mixing the two finishes in the same gun, hoses and pot. Let’s say you are working on a piece that has variations in-depth due to the wood’s natural cut.
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I figure the extra few dollars for dewaxed is not worth the shop time to figure out if you have a problem, let alone begin the terrible process of fixing it. It doesn't cost much more and it's not any harder to obtain or use. There are so many different kinds of oil used to finish wood that it can be hard to decide which one is right for your next project. Three of the most common oils are teak oil, tung oil, and linseed... Unlike other types of finish, all types of shellac can be applied in cold temperatures without concern over proper drying and curing times.
To prevent this from happening, you can use dewaxed shellac between the layers of wood finish or stain that you are applying. The dewaxed shellac can act as a barrier that prevents the absorption of the stain on certain parts of your project. Then, once you have finished staining your entire project, you can seal the piece with a different, more durable finish like lacquer or polyurethane . Both of these products seal the wood equally well, but some finishes won’t stick to regular shellac. Both amber and clear Bulls Eye shellac have a natural waxy substance that interferes with the adhesion of oil-based polyurethane and water-based finishes. To address that problem, Zinsser created SealCoat, a dewaxed shellac, meaning it has the wax removed.
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Instead, it can be utilized on decorative pieces such as mirrors, wall art, end tables, and nightstands. In this way, you can achieve the artistic design you originally had in mind . A representative at Zinsser told me that although they are still producing SealCoat, a poor shellac crop has driven the prices up, and many customers have turned to cheaper alternatives.
It is much better to be safe than sorry in protecting your projects from being damaged. Along with that, these types of sealants are not incredibly difficult to apply to your project. Fortunately, a lacquer is going to be able to be applied carefully over your shellac to provide a smooth finish. However, applying the dewaxed shellac beforehand is not overly cumbersome. Ok, so you have come up with a beautiful design for the perfect woodworking piece in your new dining room. It is all completed in its natural state– now is the time to begin applying stain, finish, sealants, etc.
Apply Between Layers of Stain and Wood Finish
Waxy shellac isn't like Teflon - stuff sticks to it, though not quite as well. I too have seen minor adhesion problems with waxy shellac. I have shot a lacquer over one brand of shellac several times with no problems. I may not have noticed the adhesion problem, but for the job hanging around in my shop for several weeks. After walking by it a hundred times or so, I noticed unusual light variations in this old walnut sideboard I had refinished.
So if you use products containing small amounts of alcohol, such as polishing or cleaning agents, the dewaxed sealant couldn’t protect your wood pieces from these elements. But you can prevent this by using dewaxed pre-sealant–acting as a barrier between the wood layers you’re staining. Also, it helps prevent stain absorption on some parts of the wood. After finishing, you’re free to use different types of finish, such as polyurethane or lacquer. Although its dewaxed form can help prevent water absorption, it does not have the same properties as authentic sealants such as polyurethane or lacquer.
I make an 8oz liquid sample of every lot of shellac I sell, so I have trace-ability for a lot. I also deal with a vendor that can supply an assay immediately or upon request if one does not exist for that lot. Sometimes the Lemon flake that is used to make Bullseye has a particularly high wax content and the lots I buy are no exception. Zinsser goes to great lengths to blend the Lemon flake used for Amber Bullseye so that lot differences are minimized - but still there can be differences. If you use the Clear Bullseye, you're apt to experience more consistency from can to can.
I stick to low-wax content shellac lots for the few waxy pre-mixed shellacs I offer, because it seems prudent to do so and I can be picky. I sealed first with someone else's shellac before applying your topcoat. It doesn't matter if that was the real reason for the failure - you are screwed.
It will produce one of the most beautiful finishes in woodworking. Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine. Shellac flakes are dissolved by denatured ethyl alcohol. It's very easy to use and an excellent non-toxic choice for woodworkers. This provides the advantage of being fully compatible with any other kind of finishing products such as Polyurethane, Waterlox, dies etc. This is a good habit to get into before applying any kind of die, varnish, stain, or paint.
Even though it is often marketed as water-resistant, this is often not the case for exposure to much water. Sure, dewaxed shellac adds a thin layer of protection if you were to drop a bit of water and immediately wipe it up, but it will not protect the wood from long term water exposure. Shellac will adhere tenaciously to virtually any surface and is much less brittle than lacquer and does not scratch as easily. Unlike toxic polyurethane, a damaged shellac finish can easily be touched up or renewed by applying another coat.
Overall, dewaxed shellac is a good type of finish to use for woodworking. It can provide a smooth, glossy surface that protects the wood from scratches and minor damage. Another thing dewaxed can be applied between wood stain layers or finish.
I'm definitely with you on WB making some stuff look terrible as compared to solvent based finishes. We almost always hit projects with shellac or lacquer for both grain raise prevention and that most beautiful look that I haven't seen without it under a WB finish. Not that I'm an expert, or that I've tried all brands - I haven't. We clean the solvent based stuff out with lacquer thinner and then clean the gun with warm soapy water before switching guns.
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