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I stick to low-wax content shellac lots for the few waxy pre-mixed shellacs I offer, because it seems prudent to do so and I can be picky. I sealed first with someone else's shellac before applying your topcoat. It doesn't matter if that was the real reason for the failure - you are screwed.
I'm definitely with you on WB making some stuff look terrible as compared to solvent based finishes. We almost always hit projects with shellac or lacquer for both grain raise prevention and that most beautiful look that I haven't seen without it under a WB finish. Not that I'm an expert, or that I've tried all brands - I haven't. We clean the solvent based stuff out with lacquer thinner and then clean the gun with warm soapy water before switching guns.
Fine Woodworking Project Guides
A new coat of shellac melts itself into the existing coat. Even if you do not anticipate any contact with water, it is still recommended to protect your wood projects from damaging elements by adding these layers of protection. I totally agree that waxy shellac is always acceptable under certain coatings. A plain oleoresinous varnish like Waterlox can always be put over waxy shellac and has been for decades.

Along with water and alcohol, since dewaxed shellac is not highly durable in terms of being a sealant, it should also not be applied to products that you plan to gain a lot of use out of. Instead, it can be added to decorative pieces hung on the wall, for example, or something similar. Dewaxed shellac can be used on wood without much exposure to water or alcohol as shellac is not considered highly water-resistant and is not alcohol-resistant. Dewaxed shellac can be applied between layers of stain, before lacquer or polyurethane sealant, or as a pre-sealant. When using this shellac, keep in mind its functions.
Regular or dewaxed shellac?
Still, you might be wondering what you can put over shellac to act as an authentic sealant. Fortunately, two of the best types of products used over dewaxed shellac include lacquer and polyurethane. These add enhanced durability, water resistance, and longevity to your woodworking piece. This can be an incredibly intuitive way to achieve the type of coloration you are going for on your woodworking project, but it must be done carefully. If you are in the market for making your woodworking pieces stand out, this can be an effective route to take.

Many types are available in waxy and dewaxed types. Contributor V, I'm the guy who would use the de-waxed. There's so much money lost on that, it could make you cry.
Apply Between Layers of Stain and Wood Finish
It brings out the rich warmth of wood grain in a way that no other finish has ever done. Another option is to just use whatever finish you're going to end with as the sealer -- the only reason to use shellac is its rapid drying time. Nothing about shellac "seals" the wood any better than polyurethane -- but if you want to seal, glaze, then finish, shellac makes the process faster.

It is much better to be safe than sorry in protecting your projects from being damaged. Along with that, these types of sealants are not incredibly difficult to apply to your project. Fortunately, a lacquer is going to be able to be applied carefully over your shellac to provide a smooth finish. However, applying the dewaxed shellac beforehand is not overly cumbersome. Ok, so you have come up with a beautiful design for the perfect woodworking piece in your new dining room. It is all completed in its natural state– now is the time to begin applying stain, finish, sealants, etc.
Can a Shellac that's Dewaxed Makes Wood Resistant to Water?
I've never had any trouble with using Zinsser's regular shellac under oil-based poly. I've done it quite a few times with no ill effects. Granted, it is usually glazed when I do this, and I would bet that the solvents in the oil-based glaze remove waxiness from the surface of the shellac.

Because of this, you must keep the functionality of this type of product in mind when you plan on using it. However, it is important to know that while the dewaxed shellac can “seal in” the piece you are working on, it will not “seal out” other elements that your woodworking piece comes into contact with. If you are using nitrocellulose lacquer or oil-based varnishes other than polyurethane, such as Waterlox or any alkyd varnish, you can safely use the waxy amber or clear 3-lb. If you’re using oil-based poly or any water-based finish, stick with SealCoat. If you’re up for it, you can also mix your own shellac using dewaxed shellac flakes.
It has a guaranteed lifetime of 3 years from the date stamped on the can and it is guaranteed to be completely dewaxed and it sure looks like it is when you open the can. But, if you're looking for some dewaxed shellac and the paint store down the corner has it, it certainly is a good thing rather than waiting for the UPS man to arrive with it from the Frozen Tundra. There is simply no material advantage to Zinnser over mixing your own shellac. In my experience, the Zinsser product doesn't form as hard a finish as the shellac I mix myself.

However, whether you are an amateur or a pro, it can still be helpful to look at a few cases when dewaxed shellac should be applied. But remember – it is best used as a “pre-sealant” and should come together with authentic sealants like polyurethane and lacquer to prolong the lifespan of your wood projects. Also, these types of sealants are relatively easy to apply, and lacquer can cover your shellac over a smooth finish. However, applying dewaxed can be done beforehand, and it’s not as tedious as it sounds. You can apply lacquer or polyurethane over shellac to achieve authentic sealant.
I figure the extra few dollars for dewaxed is not worth the shop time to figure out if you have a problem, let alone begin the terrible process of fixing it. It doesn't cost much more and it's not any harder to obtain or use. There are so many different kinds of oil used to finish wood that it can be hard to decide which one is right for your next project. Three of the most common oils are teak oil, tung oil, and linseed... Unlike other types of finish, all types of shellac can be applied in cold temperatures without concern over proper drying and curing times.
Since there are many brands on the market, we did a quick rundown of the brands trusted and relied on by our professional woodworkers. As we’ve mentioned above, shellac that’s dewaxed is not water-resistant. Although some products claim dewaxed is water-resistant, this isn’t the case. Since shellac dewax isn’t very durable, you shouldn’t use it on pieces you plan to use a lot.
It also doesn't seem to have the clarity or tone of mixed shellac. The Zinnser product is also more than simply shellac and alcohol - it has additives to extend its shelf life. It brushes and sprays noticeably different from mixed shellac. The only advantage to using Zinnser is that it comes in a can - a ready to use 3lb cut. This is pretty spiffy if you don't use shellac much. It's not better in any other way to mixed shellac.

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